Not the everyday stress kind, but the tension in stitching. I’ve had a few messages recently from stitchers asking what kind of hoop or embroidery frame I use. If you’ve been here a while, you’ll know that I hardly ever use one at all.
I have a variety of frames, from the tubular/modular plastic kind to the traditional round wooden hoops, and I don’t get on with any of them well enough to use them regularly. I also don’t do ‘proper’ formal embroidery very often, the kind that needs stretching and framing. If I did, then I’d have to learn to stitch in a hoop more consistently.
If I do have to use a hoop, I prefer square/rectangular frames like these by Nurge (no affiliation, I just like them):
I prefer these because I never understand why most embroidery hoops are circular when the grain of fabric is square. With a round hoop, there’s always a danger of overstretching the bias into the frame and distorting the fabric.
Here are some of the reasons I don’t like using a hoop, and these of course are my personal preferences, not in any way an instruction not to use a hoop. Most stitchers seem to like them.
- I don’t like the way you can only see a little section of the work when using a hoop. I like to see the bigger picture throughout. I find it hard to stay connected to the whole cloth when I can only see and handle a bit of it at a time
- I don’t like the way the fabric is stretched taut (and I know you don’t have to have it drum tight). I prefer to feel the weight of the cloth in my hands as I stitch
- I don’t like the way the edge of the frame crushes previous stitches when you move on to another area. If you’re working on something very textural or layered, it’s sometimes too bulky to fit in the hoop comfortably
- Unless you have a hands-free frame on a stand (and they come with their own separate issues, in my experience), you have to reserve one hand for holding the frame and it becomes cumbersome
- You can’t easily see what’s happening on the back of the work without turning the whole thing upside down
For informal embroidery, or general hand stitching like the daily stitch journal, I find it’s very easy to manage the tension without a hoop. Half the battle is having the right fabric: if your fabric is too lightweight or slippery, then (probably) hello Mr and Mrs Pucker. But then sometimes you might enjoy that effect, where the stitches pull slightly too tight and cause undulating ripples across the surface. If you’re working on medium weight cotton or linen, then it’s fairly easy to maintain an even tension.
Circles are probably the trickiest thing to stitch without a hoop, because it’s very easy to pull the thread fractionally too tight, and that will cause puckering. General good practice is to support the work on a table (sit upright, it’s good for your posture) so that you can hold the bit you’re working on as if your hands were the hoop. The rest of the cloth just relaxes on the table.
If you work slowly, you can check as you go that the fabric isn’t pulling under the stitches. You can use a thumb to press each stitch into the cloth, which also helps to check the tension. I sometimes get irate messages on Instagram saying ‘get your thumb out of the way, I can’t see the stitch’. The thumb is an essential piece of equipment if you don’t use a hoop. With practice, you can feel when the tension is right.
There’s a section on managing the tension in my Intuitive Daily Stitching course, which might be helpful to beginners.
So there we are. How many of you prefer to use a hoop?
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I like a hoop for certain things – bullion and french knots are so much easier in a hoop I find and always for quilting – but generally I prefer to embroider without.
thanks Lin – yes, knots and bullions are often easier on a hoop, I agree. Hands-free hoop, even easier. The rectangular hoops (squares?) can be hard to find; I don’t know why more manufacturers don’t make them.
I love this post so much! And so many things you were mentioning as reasons I had always just assumed that there was something wrong with me for feeling this way! I have never ever heard of rectangle frame hoops (I guess they can’t be called hoops oops haha), thank you, how nice to learn something new 🙂
thanks so much Naomi. Definitely nothing wrong with you! Yes, there should be another name for square/rectangular hoops. Reminds me of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and the square sweets that look round…
Yes exactly!
Good to hear you that you prefer to ‘hold the fabric’ and ‘feel the tension’ by hand. Now I can stop feeling guilty for not using the hoops and frames acquired over the years when stitching informally.
thanks so much – definitely no need to feel guilty!
Thank you for sharing those tips, Karen as well as the video clip. All extremely useful. I too can’t get on very well with a hoop and also like the feel of the fabric as I work
thanks so much Mags. I agree, you can’t beat the feel of the cloth in your hands as you stitch.
I totally agree ! 😊💛✨
I’m pleasantly surprised to see so many fellow hoop-deniers 🙂
I prefer to stitch without a hoop but now (thank you!) I have solid reasons for what used to be just a preference to go hoop free! I have always hated the way a hoop smashes stitches and leaves a nearly un-iron-out-able mark in fabric. Thanks for continuing to inspire and inform!
yes, that un-ironable crease is another reason… thanks so much for adding to the list 🙂
It varies, but in particular when I’m using tricksy fabrics (hello gauze..) it helps to have a hoop. I agree about the frustration of not seeing the whole thing – that’s one of the serious disadvantages of even pieces in rolling frames.
ah yes, I’d forgotten about the rolling frames – same problem, as you say. But totally agree, for something very fine like gauze or organza etc hoops are pretty much essential.
The biggest problem with a hoop is in my opinion that it makes it more difficult or impossible to make one stitch down and up with the needle in one movement. I don’t know if I use the right English words. Do you understand what I mean?
Absolutely, yes. The only way to do that would be to have the fabric fairly loose in the hoop so that you could complete the up/down stitch in one movement – but still difficult to manoeuvre the needle that way, I find. A hands-free hoop (on a stand) would let you have one hand above the work and one hand underneath, but I find that interrupts the natural flow of hand stitching.
Hello Karen,
I stitch with & without, depending on how much stitching I need (mentally) to do. Plus how my hands are feeling. Tired, achy hands appreciate the hoop. Following you and doing the daily stitch go hoop-less.
Thank you for all you offer. Most enjoyable.
thanks so much, Cathie – I do appreciate the hoop might help if your hands are prone to aching or fatigue.
Since starting my stitch journal Jan. 1st, I am totally hooked on not using a hoop! I also love to feel the fabric loose and bunched in my hand; it’s part of the tactile process. I am glad to learn about square hoops as that makes so much sense over a round one. I brought my stitch kit with me on vacation in Arizona and am enjoying stitching the different colors & textures of the desert!
how lovely – so glad you’re enjoying your daily stitching adventure. That’s another great thing about hoopless stitching, it’s probably more portable.
I totally agree with you Karen and only ever use a hoop when I am doing hardanger embroidery which requires the tension. There is nothing like sitting with the cloth in your lap and feeling every stitch as you make it. I recently tried using a hoop and following the “correct” technique instructions for a whole cloth celtic hand quilted cushion cover – soon gave up and did without. If it isn’t “perfect” I really don’t mind as it is my stitching and I’m happy with it.
perfection is very much over-rated in my world view. There are times, as you say, when a hoop really is necessary, but stitching can be much freer and more expressive without one.
I totally concur with you Karen regarding using a hoop. 99.99% of the time I do not use one. Feels too stiff in my hands and I don’t feel I have the flexibility I want with my piece of work.
Years ago, when I had my quilting store, I had a staff person do a presentation and when she talked about the embroidery work that she does, she said she always adds a VERY light-weight fabric to the back of the piece of work (i.e. batiste). This gives just a bit more stability to a light weight fabric plus your knots or your travelling stitches don’t show as easily. Also assists in preventing the puckering issues. Using large machine stitches, I baste this fabri in place AFTER I’ve marked my design on top of the fabric.
what a good idea that is, thanks so much for sharing it. I do sometimes work on two layers if the fabrics are very soft or lightweight. I hadn’t thought about the advantage of it hiding the floating stitches, that’s clever 🙂
Hi Karen,
I have been doing embroidery for almost three years now, thanks to you!! I needed a hobby but wasn’t the least bit interested in embroidering flowers or little scenes using a hoop ( which was the only embroidery I had seen). Then, fortuitously I stumbled upon your blog and realized i could embroider freestyle with stitches and repetitive patterning & abstract designs without ever touching a hoop or making a flower 😁
It ‘s been an almost daily joy ever since! Thank you.
How lovely, thanks so much Alison. Same here, never really been enthused by stitching perfect little flowers etc, though I admire those who can. So glad you’ve found a way that works for you 🙂
Hi Karen, great article! I was wondering if you mark your circles in the video because they look so perfect! Thanks, Vicky
thanks so much Vicky – no, I don’t mark them first as I prefer to do everything freehand on the daily stitching. Just by chance they turned out pretty round today. There’s no rule that says you can’t draw it first though 🙂
Oh, I so agree with everything you said about not using a hoop, Karen. In the past, I always struggled with the holding of it but needing/wanting both hands for the stitching and holding the fabric. It has only been in the last couple of years that I gave up on the hoop. How freeing! haha
Ha, thanks so much Judy. I hit the publish button on this post bracing myself for irate stitchers telling me I need to do it properly and use a hoop 😆 How refreshing this is! And yes, stitching sans hoop is so freeing.
Don’t necessarily use a hoop, it tightens the fabric and have a hard time making the stitches. For example the up and down motion.
exactly, I agree
No way! It was a revelation when I realised you don’t need a hoop. Agree with your reasons not to use one 100% Karen. Love your work.
thanks so much Annie. It’s very liberating to rebel a little now and then 🙂
I’m a frame user always. It’s just how I like to work. My mother never used a frame but my stitching life changed when I discovered frames. I have them in a myriad of sizes too. I don’t have marks from the frame on my fabric possibly because I set the frame up with a padding which is kind to the fabric. Each to their own and happy stitching to all. 😊
Mary :))
aah, lovely to hear from a pro-hoop stitcher! Thanks so much Mary for your perspective. Setting up the frame with padding in order to prevent marking is a brilliant idea. Vive la difference 🤗
I’m pro hoop but I love your point about square hoops and just ordered one. the piece I’m working on right now is very old, I’ve put it down a hundred times, and it has a lot of puckering from me not knowing how to do all this on thin fabric thirty years ago. // I’d love to try no hoop but I’m a bit nervous about it. it’s on the list of things to try this year.
aha, hope you like the square hoop Em – I find them a bit easier to set up than the round ones. How lovely to be working on such an old piece; I love the way the cloth and stitching are evolving alongside you. It’s all part of one life in its various stages, innocence and experience (in the Blakeian sense). Also, there’s nothing to fear re going hoopless – it will be easier than you expect.
I always used a hoop back in my crewel embroidery days (that would be the 1960s and early 70s) … sadly, the hoops available back then were spring-loaded metal with a cork lining which, when left in place for weeks on end as I was wont to do, not only stretched the cloth and smashed the stitching, but also left rust marks!
I did buy some bamboo hoops a couple of years ago “just in case” but have yet to use them
oh I remember those old hoops! My auntie used to wrap the rims with strips of fabric to stop the rust marks. But yes, you do need a hoop for things like crewel work (what I call ‘proper embroidery’, which I don’t do 🙂) Thanks for the memory!