From the opening page of the Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont (my copy is undated but it’s the revised and enlarged edition, probably early 20th century):
“Many people, upon opening the Encyclopedia of Needlework, will be disposed to exclaim* as they read the title of this chapter: What is the use of all this information about hand-sewing now that machine-stitching has so nearly superseded work done by hand? We hasten to reply that, among the many accomplishments of women, there is none in which it is of such importance to be thoroughly grounded as in plain sewing properly so called which is, indeed, the foundation of all other needlecraft.”
* what a delightful phrase ‘disposed to exclaim’ is. I shall use it at my next available opportunity.
Plain sewing is what in the nineteenth century was ‘functional’ sewing – the making of clothes and household linens, and mending – before sewing machines were routinely available. The reason for the lengthy quotation from the venerable Mme de Dillmont is that work has begun on my Janet Clare Artisan Apron.
Since having the pattern in my eager little hands I knew I was going to sew the whole thing by hand, just for the challenge and enjoyment of it. I also knew I was going to make two: one clean white one for stitching on, and one colourful messy one to wear while painting and dyeing.
And I’ve been enjoying some plain sewing for a change.
For the plain white version I’m using a cotton/linen blend, cut from an old bed sheet. The lining is a modern lightweight cotton, like lawn but a slightly closer weave.
For the construction I’m using standard white cotton sewing thread (mine happens to be Coats) and for the top stitching I’m working running stitch with a slightly heavier fine cotton. If you’re familiar with the threads that I dye and sell in my shop, it’s the undyed version of the fine cotton thread.
I’m following the instructions carefully and pressing those seams:
I’m at the stage with the white version where I’m currently sewing the apron and lining together:
The second apron, I confess, is more fun. I’m modelling the design on something like this dressing gown, made many years ago. I like the randomness of the colours and patches.
The apron front will be something like this:
And the backs are yet to be assembled from this pile of deliciousness:
After the prolonged complexities of our very stressful house move, plus the non-stop activities of unpacking and decorating, some gentle quiet repetitive sewing is proving to be just the restorative activity I need right now.
Lovely! I look forward to seeing both of them. I love simple hand sewing.
same 🙂
Looks beautiful Karen! 💙
thanks Pam, it’s very therapeutic 🙂
Excellent – your term “this pile of deliciousness”!
A pile of fabric, a conglomerate of threads – does life get any better?
Love the white apron, such a crisp nakedness- a deliciousness all in its own self before the bonus of decorated stitches!
Ha if I’ve done it right it will be good… but yes, this is the best way to spend a day – pins, fabric scraps and a vision 😍
your fine stitches are eye candy …
on a related note, I was in a store that sells clothing from India to purchase some fine cotton pants and tops to use as summer pajamas … I mentioned to the clerk that I wished they sold cloth by the yard as it would be a joy to sew … she expressed surprise that I sewed clothing, so you can imagine her response when I added that I don’t use a sewing machine!
ha! I agree though, Indian cotton is wonderful fabric to work with. Especially by hand!
I have that book, an ancient copy. The print and book itself is small so I have a hard time reading it. Plus the pages are super fragile. It is a lovely reference book though and a treasure to own, regardless of the edition.
it is a lovely book. Mine is very small too but in good condition given its age. A veritable treasure trove 🙂
Dillmont’s book is a must-have for any needlewoman’s library! IMHO, when it comes to needlework and sewing there is no such thing as outdated information.
My grandmother started teaching me embroidery and hand sewing when I was 2yrs old to keep me out of trouble on her farm. Every third stitch had to be a backstitch to secure the thread to prevent snagging in the old wringer washing machines. Grandma would be horrified at the length of your stitches. LOL. Mine had to be less than 1/8″! But the skill was a blessing in 1972 when my sewing machine broke while I was making my wedding dress and I had to finish it by hand. Thankfully all the main seams had been finished, and on my wedding day I was frantically hand rolling the hem of my veil!
Looking forward to seeing your finished aprons. Love looking at all of your needlework!
It certainly is a useful skill, and I love the idea of finishing your wedding dress and veil by hand. My top stitches are about 1/8″, the seam stitches slightly smaller – nowhere near as tiny as some nineteenth-century hand stitches I’ve seen. I’m very much enjoying making these so far 🙂
Beautiful neat stitching! Love the look of your robe…wonder if you used a pattern for that please?
thanks so much – no, I made it up. It’s basically a kimono, so a long rectangle for the back, square sleeves and two long strips for the fronts. There are free patterns/tutorials online to make something similar.
I’m not sure I can quite face doing seams by hand, but I do enjoy hand-finishing my garments, so I have some idea of how restorative you might be finding it!
The seams are surprisingly quick and easy by hand so it’s no great trial and it’s very satisfying to have made the whole thing with just needle and thread