Tag: sewing

Aprons one and two

My plain white linen/cotton apron is now structurally complete, sewn entirely by hand, and I’m very happy with it:

Janet Clare artisan apron

The top stitching took a while but it looks OK I think:

top stitching by hand

Difficult to get a sense of scale from the photo but the stitches are just under 1/8th of an inch. I’ll be working some kind of embroidery on it when it knows what it wants to be, so the top stitching will be less obvious when there’s some decoration in place. It’s definitely a blank canvas at the moment.

I’m very impressed by the pattern and the way the pieces fit together so perfectly. The fit is pretty true to size too. I’m a UK size 8-10 and I made the Small, which fits really well. I trimmed about half an inch from the centre front as my shoulders are quite narrow, and I made it a tiny bit longer.

The second apron (same pattern) is now under construction, pieced fairly randomly from hand-dyed cotton and linen fabrics.

Apron 2

I’ve used a couple of hand-printed fabrics on the front; this one was from Hippos in Hats on Etsy and I’ve been saving it for just such an occasion as this:

printed fabric from Hippos in Hats

…and with the hand stitched outline completed (it’s just straight stitch with cotton thread over the printed outline):

stitching over hand print

I’ve also used a couple of eco-prints from Jane Hunter, to which I’ve added a bit of very simple embroidery with colonial knots and straight stitch:

simple stitching over eco-print

As before, I’m stitching all the seams by hand:

side seam showing notches for pocket placement

The lining for this one is very lightweight calico which I dyed a while ago. I wasn’t keen on the way the grey/red turned out, but it will do just fine as a lining. There wasn’t quite enough so I’ve added pieces of the same fabric in turquoise/brown:

lightweight calico lining, hand dyed with Procion

I accidentally dropped this earthy orange scrap onto the apron after stitching the front and sides together. I really like the splash of colour against that green and magenta/purple, so I’ll find a way to add it somewhere.

that orange though!

Looking forward to seeing this one done.

Plain sewing

From the opening page of the Encyclopedia of Needlework by Therese de Dillmont (my copy is undated but it’s the revised and enlarged edition, probably early 20th century):

“Many people, upon opening the Encyclopedia of Needlework, will be disposed to exclaim* as they read the title of this chapter: What is the use of all this information about hand-sewing now that machine-stitching has so nearly superseded work done by hand? We hasten to reply that, among the many accomplishments of women, there is none in which it is of such importance to be thoroughly grounded as in plain sewing properly so called which is, indeed, the foundation of all other needlecraft.”

* what a delightful phrase ‘disposed to exclaim’ is. I shall use it at my next available opportunity.

Plain sewing is what in the nineteenth century was ‘functional’ sewing – the making of clothes and household linens, and mending – before sewing machines were routinely available. The reason for the lengthy quotation from the venerable Mme de Dillmont is that work has begun on my Janet Clare Artisan Apron.

Since having the pattern in my eager little hands I knew I was going to sew the whole thing by hand, just for the challenge and enjoyment of it. I also knew I was going to make two: one clean white one for stitching on, and one colourful messy one to wear while painting and dyeing.

And I’ve been enjoying some plain sewing for a change.

hand-stitched dart

For the plain white version I’m using a cotton/linen blend, cut from an old bed sheet. The lining is a modern lightweight cotton, like lawn but a slightly closer weave.

top stitching the pockets

For the construction I’m using standard white cotton sewing thread (mine happens to be Coats) and for the top stitching I’m working running stitch with a slightly heavier fine cotton. If you’re familiar with the threads that I dye and sell in my shop, it’s the undyed version of the fine cotton thread.

I’m following the instructions carefully and pressing those seams:

carefully pressed top stitching

I’m at the stage with the white version where I’m currently sewing the apron and lining together:

apron and lining

The second apron, I confess, is more fun. I’m modelling the design on something like this dressing gown, made many years ago. I like the randomness of the colours and patches.

foundation-pieced robe

The apron front will be something like this:

fabrics for apron front

And the backs are yet to be assembled from this pile of deliciousness:

heap of hand-dyed fabrics

After the prolonged complexities of our very stressful house move, plus the non-stop activities of unpacking and decorating, some gentle quiet repetitive sewing is proving to be just the restorative activity I need right now.